The Parker House means politics

From candidates waving their placards at Park Street Station to several thousands college kids demonstrating to decriminalize marijuans to food and craft fairs at Copley Square, the area near the Parker House in Boston is democracy in action and a delight on Fall days. Yes the smoke is that noxious weed, and the benevolent Police only made 53 arrest this year during the Hemp Fest on The Common last weekend, but Deb Goldberg's efforts didn't help her on Tuesday. Click to see the scene close up.

Ghosts of JFK, Ho Chi Minh and Malcolm X still haunt these hallowed halls, and District, a great new bistro-lounge is a short stroll through Chinatown away

By Walter and Patricia Brooks

I

n 1872, the most famous local history tome of the time, Boston Illustrated, wrote, "The Parker House, on School Street, near the corner of Tremont, was the first hotel established in the city on the European plan, and has for years been one of the most prominent of the many leading hotels of Boston.

The 1872 edition of Boston Illustrated.

The hotel entrance on Tremont is across from the ancient burial ground of America's first patriots. Here's what it looked like in 1872 and today. 

The lobby may take your breath away with its oak paneled walls and the giant crystal chandeliers.

Across Tremont St. from the hotel is the Granary Burying Ground, the final resting place of Revolutionary-era patriots like Samuel Adams, Peter Faneuil, Paul Revere, and John Hancock.

Be sure to end your Parker House dinner with Crepes Suzette prepared at your table. Click on any of the photos to see them full size.

"The late proprietor of the Parker House, Mr. Harvey D. Parker, began in a small way in another building, and gained a reputation for providing the best that the market afforded, which the present Parker’s has never suffered itself to lose. The house is elegant externally, and sumptuously furnished within..."

A century and a half later this description still rings true as we discovered on the weekend before the 2006 Massachusetts primary.

The Parker House Hotel in Boston is owned by Omni Hotels. It has 551 rooms and suites which underwent an $80 million renovation in 2000. The location at the corner of School and Tremont Streets could not be more convenient. It's only a block from the Washington Street shopping area as well.

The hotel has a striking presence from the inside, and the outside.  It may take your breath away with its oak paneled walls and the giant crystal chandeliers. Décor and amenities like these are not easily forgotten.

Many famous folks have worked at the Parker House, including Ho Chi Minh who was a busboy, Malcolm X who was a waiter and Food Channel mega-star Emeril Lagasse who was a chef. Over a centiry ago an unknown pastry chef here created the famous Parker House roll. The Parker House is also world famous for having invented classic American foods such as Boston cream pie and having coined the term scrod to refer to fresh, small portion of Atlantic cod. The infamous actor John Wilkes Booth stayed there the week before he shot President Abraham Lincoln.

In fact, an evening in Parkers, the hotel's classic dining room, is a memorable experience. Although a jacket is no longer required, I gave the occasion the dignity it deserved and wore mine. The service is impeccable, and the menu classic.

The hotel offers online reservations starting at $169 a night, and also offers the Go Boston package through the end of the year. The Parker's Go Boston Card includes admission to more than 60 attractions including whale watch, Boston Duck Tour, two-day Beantown Trolley pass, theme park admission, museums, historical sites, day tours and more!  Plus preferred entry at select attractions means no waiting in ticket lines.  Attractions include the New England Aquarium, Museum of Science, Museum of Fine Arts, JFK Library and Museum, Boston's Children Museum, Franklin Park Zoo and Six Flags New England.

Kennedy launched his political career here

John F. Kennedy announced his candidacy for Congress in the hotel's Press Room and went on to become a US Senator and our martyred President on November 22, 1963. The Parker House is a two block stroll down Beacon Street from the seat of the Massachusetts state government, and it has long been a frequent rendezvous for politicians.

In fact, the lobby bar is the famous "Last Hurrah" named after the classic book and film by Cape Cod summer colonist Edwin O'Connor, a thinly disguised story about Boston's mayor James Michael Curley.

As Lawyer's Weekly wrote this week; "The Last Hurrah on the lobby level of the Parker House fairly reeks of Massachusetts political history. The restaurant's walls are covered with black-and-white photos of well-known politicos, notably the Bay State's own John F. Kennedy and sometime Boston mayor and governor James Michael Curley, the latter having used the Parker House as the setting for many an event or pronouncement during his colorful tenure in public service.  In fact, it was the Edwin O'Connor's 1956 fictional rendering of Curley's half-century in politics that gave the restaurant its name. Both endure to this day, and, judging from recent visits to The Last Hurrah, the popular eatery and its evocative name are likely to remain for sometime..."

Not a Disney recreation, The Freedom Trail is history you can walk

One of the great advantages of living near enough to Boston is the opportunity to allow our children (and grandchildren) to literally walk America's history. The Parker House is the only Boston hotel on the Freedom Trail.

The Boston Freedom Trail is a plainly marked two-and-a-half mile walkable path which leads to sixteen historic sites, all significant in this country's early struggle for freedom. They are connected by a red brick line that not only links one place to another, but the past to the present, and it passes by The Parker House.

What makes the sites on the Freedom Trail so special is that they are not recreations or adaptations. They are real. Each one has a role in the beginning of a nation, each one connects us to the spirit of Boston's early patriots whose hearts were ignited by the spark of liberty. Two of the sites are in front of the hotel, the Granary Burial Ground and The Boston Common while another half dozen are within two blocks!

And the only cost is a little shoe leather.

Owner Frankie Stavianopoulos explains why Elite Stolie is smoother than Absolut or Belvedere.

His District burger was as good as they get. The Pork Shank on sweet potato and collards greens yummy.

The ambiance is eclectic and hip.

Click on map and photos to see full size.

District, a great restaurants nearby

On our second evening we opted to try a brand next bistro-lounge a short stroll from the hotel.

District opened in June and today has all the kinks out and is serving absolutely remarkable food in a hot, nearly nightclub setting.

Conveniently located at 180 Lincoln Street in the first block off Kneeland, the entrance area feels like a very hip, uptown NYC nightclub. But after owner Frankie Stavianopoulos convinced my wife to switch from her Absolut Martini to one made with the new Elite Stolichnaya, everything got somewhat mellower.

It was the perfect lead-in to some fabulous food. Here's how we began;

• Vegetable Spring Rolls, Thai chili peanut sauce and lemongrass mint sauce, $8.
  How does a lounge chef make Asian Spring Rolls better than the one two blocks away in Chinatown? By having been a chef like Andy Brown who worked for years in Japan, that's how.
• Truffled Frites with fine herbs, grana, and truffle oil, $8. 
• Shrimp Tempura, Coconut-peanut crusted shrimp with a mango ginger salad, $12. Crunchy, tasty and fun to share.
  The rest of the unusual District menu is here.

We refreshed our palates with;

• Poached Pear Salad of baby Arugula, candied walnuts, bleu cheese, Port-Yuzu vinaigrette, $12. This was so good we fought over it.

Then we ended with;

• Braised Pork Shank, served in the middle of fall greens, Cointreau laced sweet potatoes, collard greens and natural jus, $28. The meat was de-boned and melted in your mouth.
• And I took advantage of a city restaurant which serves sandwiches for dinner with a superb District Burger, Angus beef, bleu cheese, caramelized onions, $12.  Notice that price is about half what they charge along Newbury Street.

If ever a new restaurant deserved to make it, District does. It's located in the Leather District, Boston’s industrial chic condo loft neighborhood at the edge of Chinatown and an easy walk from the Theatre District and the Washington Street shopping area. The lounge-bistro was designed by JFS Design Studio with a unique and aggressive design exuding an exotic tone with a hint of dangerous sensuality by combining ornate floral patterns and spherical shapes with birch tree trunks lined along the walls, behind the bar, and creatively used as door handles. White patent leather banquettes and comfy booths combined with gloss-white chandeliers radiate a vintage atmosphere that is edgy yet inviting.

After dinner it was an intriguing ten minute walk back to The Parker House along Beach Street through Chinatown.

It would be difficult to imagine a more exciting place to be during the 2006 political season for the next seven weeks.

History is made here, as well as this classic limerick;

A brash, Boston Brahman named Cole,
Had a humor exceedingly droll -
Attended a masquerade ball
Dressed in nothing at all,
She backed in as a Parker House Roll.